Dan Will Travel
I'm Dan and I WILL Travel
This famous mining town was my base for 2 days. Although in the same state, it is 715 miles from Sydney and definitely in a different world. Many minerals were mined here, but the chief was lead. The tailings pile from the main mine is in view from nearly everywhere in town. But, Broken Hill is very different. Look below at the pile and note the 2 futuristic structures perched on the rim. On the left is a very moving memorial to all of the over 800 people that have died working in the mine. On the right is a café and wine bar.
Mine tailings are never pretty. But Broken Hill at least put some worthy structures on them.
The memorial to the over 800 killed in the mine since the late 1800’s. Sorted by year, with each name and cause of death. Explosion, crushed, lead poisoning, heart attack. Each and every one.
The elaborate union hall, still functioning to this day. Broken Hill was a key place in the development of Australian unions and was known for many strikes and riots.
Coming out as a gay male at mid life, many others told me to be sure to watch “Priscilla, Queen of the Desert,” a campy gay classic. Much of it was filmed here at the Palace Hotel, where I stayed on this trip. The Palace, dating from 1889 still basks in the notoriety, and has the Priscilla suite available. (it was used in the movie and was already booked when I made my plans.) It is also the base for an annual 3 day drag queen event, the Broken Heel Festival.
I had a great room on the second floor with access to the full deck. Note the gay flag. In the middle of the Outback!
Yes, that is a giant shoe in the lobby. And the poster from the recently completed 2018 festival. The slogan: “Life in the Outback is never a drag.”
The entire interior of the hotel was painted with surreal scenes that always had a water feature. In the desert. Done by an aboriginal man who would come by periodically, do a mural, and depart until the next time. For years this went on until all were done.
Broken Hill has a history of art and artists resulting in a very well renowned art museum. (It was home to Pro Hart, one of the most famous Australian artists.)
The art Gallery. Really well done in a beautiful 1885 building.
Along the way, a citizen noted that they needed more sculpture art, so they developed a wonderful sculpture garden on a hill outside of town. All in all, a very special town, and a total surprise to find well into the far remote Outback.
And, being Christmas time, Saturday night was the big parade. Quite the event for the locals, trust me. One told me that it was one of the best versions this year.
On the 4th day of driving, I did finally enter what I think of as the outback of Australia. The trees pretty much disappear, the roads get far emptier, the temperatures soar, and the horizon is limitless. For most of the next ten days or so, this will be my setting. When I note that the trees are now gone, they do not really reappear for 1,700 miles!
America is of course a very large country. Australia is only 2/3 our size, but with less than 20 million people, or less than Southern California. So, there are vast areas of emptiness. Probably 90% of the total area is essentially uninhabited.
Below, I included a photo of the Barrier Highway. This is the one direct, paved 2 lane road between Sydney and Adelaide or Perth. (3 of the 5 largest cities) There is just one road across all of Australia. And it is empty. I passed an oncoming vehicle about every 5 to 10 minutes!
Today, I did 500 km (300+ miles) between Cobar and Broken Hill. The temps hit about 102 and the road kill were everywhere. This is sad, but it is a part of Australia. Road kill of kangaroos. Probably 10 per mile, sometimes more. They are pretty blind at night and I think the headlights actually attract them. It is why no one should drive at night if it can be avoided. Fortunately they are prolific breeders as there remains no shortage of them.
Feral goats. Thousands of them along this road. In this case, they took over a rest stop. Not stupid as it was so hot in the sun and they are shaded and comfy. And, when you approach them along the road, they back off, unlike the roo’s. I do not think I ever saw a goat killed along the road.
1880’s government building in Wilcannia, along the Darling river. Beautiful stone work.
The Darling River in Wilcannia. Hard to image, but 500 miles inland, this was the 3rd busiest port in Australia in the 1890’s The river rose to the point that barges could traverse this far inland. It was lined with warehouses. Implement’s and supplies coming in, wool going out.
An 1896 drawbridge over the Darling. Quite rare according to the signage.
Dust storm.
Classic outback view.
So far, I have stayed mostly in the mountains heading north out of Sydney. If I am ever going to get to Perth on the west coast, I need to start heading that way! So, today I drove 650 km (400 miles) of winding, 2 lane highways and byways from Denman to Cobar. And, still not really getting into what I think of as the “Outback.” Even approaching remote Cobar, there were still plenty of trees and signs of civilization. Always something interesting along the way, though.
Just a typical scene near Denman.
Welcome to Dubbo, one of the larger towns out here. Who would know that they do rhino conservation work here?
Meet Big Bogan. I met him in Nyngan. Even though this is dry country, every town’s history is about flooding! Big Bogan sits here on the banks of the Bogan river in Bogan shire commemorating the 1990 flood that ravaged Nyngan.
Great storefront façade. Still the original butcher here. Love the lower set of signs. Family; Carcass; Small goods. Good variety I guess?
Cobar’s entrance sign. Seems appropriate for a mining town, huh?
And, here is the mine! If you look way down in, you can see the entrance into the mine. Mines are never pretty, but they are a big part of the Outback.
The entrance to the rugby oval. I just loved the team logo. So cute.
Ok, the road going out of Cobar suggests that the true Outback has arrived. Exciting day tomorrow.