Dan Will Travel

I have driven in Italy many times in the past, but this was my first time using a GPS. (I am sort of amazed that I did it without one, frankly!) Some of you have driven here as well, and others will in the future. Here are a few tips that I have learned this time and in the past.

The GPS is a lifesaver if you watch it. Not so much so if you only listen as her computerized Italian is very bad. She will say, “In 600 meters turn left onto Via Giuseppe Garibaldi.” (Trust me, this is pronounced so poorly that you would never understand it.) But, her instructions are basically worthless anyway, since in Italy, the streets are essentially not marked by name. (Yes, technically they are if you find the correct building and look up above the first floor, there will be the name of the street carved into marble of the same color as the building. Now, try finding and reading that while driving!) Now, why is this important you say? Well, in ancient towns of say 20,000 people or so, you will make 15+ decisions to get through town. A city of 50,000? Maybe over 30 “choices.” When the town is 500-2,000 years old, it is not neatly gridded.  There are no straight through streets.

What I learned long ago, was that the best way is to think like an Italian. If I am in Ragusa, and want to go to Gela far away, what would they think is the next significant town along the way out of Ragusa towards Gela? That is what will be marked at any junction, or roundabout. Ok, sounds easy, huh? As you enter the roundabout, there is a pole with 15 towns on it. Some left, some right, some straight ahead. So, as you are dodging cars all over the roundabout, you are scanning that sign to find “your“ town. Remember, they all know where they are going and they want to get there fast. Ok, found it. 9^th one down the signpost. But it’s too late, as you have passed that turnout. Ok, just take another one and turn around you say. Well, Italian roads have zero shoulders and few places to execute a turn around. But, eventually you get that done and go back into that roundabout to start all over again. Maybe you will be successful this time! And, the next roundabout is only 1 km away. The next decision looms……..

Autostradas (freeways) are “fun” too. At least the Italians understand, unlike many Americans, that the left lane is for passing only. Here is the added excitement of the intermingling of tiny underpowered trucks doing maybe 51 mph in the right lane and the drivers in the left lane doing 100 mph. Yes, they do go that fast. So, years ago, before moving left to pass, I learned to carefully look at the left lane in the mirror. If the approaching car has a Mercedes emblem, do not go into their lane. They will be flying past you very shortly.

But, once you get into the rhythm of it, it is really fun. They are very predictable drivers. They always seem to do what you expect of them. And, you get a lot more aggressive than you would ever be in the US. It’s survival mode.

Looking back at Modica on the way to Ragusa.

Countryside of SE Sicily.

Driving down the freeway, smoking volcano in the foreground. Not your typical driving experience!

Mt Etna in an active phase again.  This 10,000′ peak looms over Catania.  I think it would be like putting Mt Rainer in Kent, and adding smoke.  It is that close to a large city.  Sort of scary for the inhabitants I would think to see this going on all day and night.

Sicily is famous for its Baroque architecture, and some hill towns are almost outdoor museums of this architecture. 3 were close to Siracusa and highly recommended, (each a Unesco world heritage site) so I took a day to drive to each. This style of architecture was very popular in Italy in the early 1700’s and Sicily has so much of it due to a hugely devastating earthquake in 1693. It seems like essentially everything was fully destroyed, so entire towns had to be rebuilt, and thus the preponderance of this “hot new style.”

First was Noto, with its famous main street, lined with elegant Chiesa’s, palazzo’s and piazzas. As it all Italian towns, about every 4^th building is a church. Why, I have never understood, but I guess back then they were all needed to serve the people.

Then, it was on to Modica, a bit different than most as it lined a valley rather than being perched on a hill. The Duomo here was 250 steps up the hill from the main street, but what a view that gave it!

Lastly, Ragusa Ibla. This was the original Ragusa, but it was fully destroyed in 1693, so they build a modern Ragusa Superiore further up the hill. But, then they did decide to rebuild Ragusa Ibla, and it was magical. This is where I stayed overnight, in a very nice hotel conversion of a convent for nuns. The 40 nun “caves” became about 23 hotel rooms. I had most of 2 “caves” but it was still small, trust me. But a great view overlooking the valley below and an easy walk throughout the old town.

Noto

Essentially the courthouse/public administration building of Noto.

Baroque balcony supports in Noto.  Horses I think.

The Duomo cathedral of Noto.

Yes, it is a street, in Modica, and yes, the car is going the wrong way.

The town of Modica below from the steps of the main cathedral.

The interior of the main cathedral of Modica, 250 steps up from the town below.

The city park of Ragusa Ibla, right outside the door of my hotel.

A small church within the park of Ragusa

The back of the church above.

The convent turned hotel.  I had a room on the upper floor overlooking the valley below.

Ragusa has ornate Baroque balconies as well.

The Duomo of Ragusa.  The cars add some perspective of size in this small hill town.

A view of the cupola of the Duomo from a street above it.

A view of Ragusa Superiore above the lower town.  I had to drive straight through this on the way to my next stop.

Marble floor of a small church in Ragusa.  This pattern covered the entire sanctuary.