Dan Will Travel
I'm Dan and I WILL Travel
This ancient Sicilian city is a great stop on any tour of Sicily. The mixing and intermixing of so many cultures is evident everywhere here.
The settlement dates from 734 BC, and at one point, Siracusa was the largest city in the world! Due to its location and importance, it was fought over countless times and has been ruled by many different conquerors.
The historical center is the island of Ortigia. Here you find a maze of ancient streets and passageways, ideal for just “getting lost.” Not so ideal to drive in as I found out on my way to my hotel. But, once parked, you forget the car and just walk everywhere.
One of the highlights of a visit here are the famous catacombs under the Basilica di San Giovanni. The early 3rd century Christians “repurposed” some still earlier Greek aqueducts and water cisterns and made the whole underground area a burial chamber. It is huge! They could “house” over 10,000 bodies at any one point! Unfortunately, I was not allowed to photograph inside the catacombs, so you will just need to go there yourself to see them!
Talk about recycling/re-purposing; look at my photos below of the Siracusa Duomo. Looks totally Baroque until you look closer. It was a complete makeover of a 5th century BC Greek temple to Athena. The giant Doric columns are clearly visible inside and out. It later served as a mosque when the Arabs ruled the city, and then back to a church in the time of the Normans.
Most of what you do see all around now is Baroque from the 18th century due to the near total destruction of the area in the 1693 earthquake. But as you look at any of it, you know that there are layers and layers of older history under everything you see.
Oreccio di Dionisio. The ear of Dionysius
Inside the “ear.” Known for its perfect acoustics, it got a test that morning. This is a high school field trip, about 100 of them. They burst out into what I assume was the school song. It was deafening, but fun to watch.
wagon ruts from an entrance to the Teatro Greco, 2,500 years old.
Teatro Greco, 5th century BC. And still in use today. They are preparing for the spring season of classic Greek plays.
The nearby Roman amphitheater, 3rd largest in the Roman empire when built. Most of it was taken away by the Spanish and used for building walls during the Middle ages.
I am a sucker for ancient columns laying around.
Here is a classic example of the dichotomy of Italy. A very religious country, home of the pope, and all of those birth control rules, and here on the street is a condom machine! Lots of choices! Imagine this in the US. Well, I am sure it is illegal as the purchasing age cannot be controlled.
Just sitting there, a different color of the same Magis table that I own. Maybe I should put mine outside?
A windy morning, shot from my room’s roof top deck.
OK, I talked about driving issues in Ortigia. Somehow I got onto this “street.” About where the man is, there was a parked motorbike. Very fortunately, he came out to move it, or I would have had to back up for 500′ or so. They live with this sort of thing every day and all seem pretty cool about it.
The main street in the ancient Jewish quarter. Giudecca essentially means of the Jews. In 1492, they were given the choice of forced conversion to Christianity, or expulsion from Sicily.
Baroque palazzo’s with their ornate balconies.
Lovely tree lined street
The Duomo cathedral of Ortigia.
Masterful recycling/repurposing. The Duomo is build within the ancient Greek temple that was there first. See the giant Greek columns?
Here are the columns from the inside. 2500 years old, and still used.
A scene in the piazza del Duomo.
Right in the middle of Ortigia, the ruins of the Greek Temple of Apollo.
I am starting my first trip after getting approved for Global Entry which includes TSA pre-check. We all agree that I am not a terrorist. I am so excited.
So, I get to Chicago on United, pick up my bags and go off to American’s terminal to check in for the Rome flight. Went through the TSA pre-check line and, oops, left a water bottle in my bag. Duh, like I do not know the rules?
Well, then the fun began. They did the explosives test, and then took everything out of my bag, turned on the camera, phone, computer, everything. Which were all soaking wet due to the bottle lid not being tight, I guess. Comical. Then on to me. Off with the belt, and shoes, and then the, as you might have heard, the “more intrusive” pat down that they are doing now. First a 5 minute explanation of what he was going to do, and unfortunately, he was not cute. And, judging by how much he seemed to delay doing the actual pat down, I guess he thought the same of me? I declined the offer of a private room, being the exhibitionist that I am I guess. (It was pretty quiet mid-day on a Saturday, fortunately.)
Then, they gave me lots of paper towels to soak up the water in my bag, and off I went, rather red faced about all of it. They were actually laughing a bit as well.
I have had so many people tell me to go to Melbourne. Aussies and Americans. So, on this, my third trip, Melbourne was the final stop. Now I get it! What a great city! Forever in the shadow of Sydney, but in many ways, a better experience. If Sydney is a cross between LA and NY, then Melbourne is a cross between SF and Seattle. Cultured, sophisticated, not showy. And, for a walker, flat! Trip Advisor restaurant rankings say # ___ out of 3.200. That is a lot of dining choices, so come hungry!
It is famous for its “little” streets or lanes. They are everywhere and are filled with cafes, bars, and their famous street art. I thought Barcelona had good street art, but this is amazing, in both quality and quantity.
And NO city busses. None! All surface mass transit is via quiet, electric trams. Everywhere. I guess they wisely did not tear up the tracks back in the 40’s as all of our cities did. If you live in Seattle, you may remember the waterfront trolleys that used to operate? The cars were from Melbourne, and they still use some of the same vintage, as well as new ones.
So, when you plan your Australia adventure, do not do what I did and wait for trip 3 to hit this city.
Lots of very modern architecture. I think this is a condo building.
A 1920’s era movie play house
Well, it is Christmas so of course, the Salvation Army is out on the streets. But, instead of the simple kettle and bell, we have violins and posing in front of wild street art.
Street art
This really nice work was hidden in a corner of a lane.
Not sure what I can add to this one.
Nothing is spared from the artists.
St. Patrick’s cathedral. Late 19th century, British architect that did all of the drawings from England and never visited the site! Must have been pretty standard stuff to crank out back then?
In 1891 the Victoria legislature said it would consider women’s suffrage if the women were really interested in it. A few months later, they submitted a petition that was 850′ long and had 30,000 signatures. Even then, it took another 17 years for women to get the right to vote. This sculpture signifies the 850’long petition.
A really funny version of soccer being played in a city park. Note the one participant fully off his feet.
Sort of looks like Seattle, huh? I think we still have more than they do, but there was a lot of construction going on for sure.
A wax begonia Christmas tree. Just like home, LOL.
Santa is either trying to get in or to get out, I am not sure. Great old apartment building with some resident with a good sense of humor and holiday spirit.