Driving in Italy
I have driven in Italy many times in the past, but this was my first time using a GPS. (I am sort of amazed that I did it without one, frankly!) Some of you have driven here as well, and others will in the future. Here are a few tips that I have learned this time and in the past.
The GPS is a lifesaver if you watch it. Not so much so if you only listen as her computerized Italian is very bad. She will say, “In 600 meters turn left onto Via Giuseppe Garibaldi.” (Trust me, this is pronounced so poorly that you would never understand it.) But, her instructions are basically worthless anyway, since in Italy, the streets are essentially not marked by name. (Yes, technically they are if you find the correct building and look up above the first floor, there will be the name of the street carved into marble of the same color as the building. Now, try finding and reading that while driving!) Now, why is this important you say? Well, in ancient towns of say 20,000 people or so, you will make 15+ decisions to get through town. A city of 50,000? Maybe over 30 “choices.” When the town is 500-2,000 years old, it is not neatly gridded. There are no straight through streets.
What I learned long ago, was that the best way is to think like an Italian. If I am in Ragusa, and want to go to Gela far away, what would they think is the next significant town along the way out of Ragusa towards Gela? That is what will be marked at any junction, or roundabout. Ok, sounds easy, huh? As you enter the roundabout, there is a pole with 15 towns on it. Some left, some right, some straight ahead. So, as you are dodging cars all over the roundabout, you are scanning that sign to find “your“ town. Remember, they all know where they are going and they want to get there fast. Ok, found it. 9th one down the signpost. But it’s too late, as you have passed that turnout. Ok, just take another one and turn around you say. Well, Italian roads have zero shoulders and few places to execute a turn around. But, eventually you get that done and go back into that roundabout to start all over again. Maybe you will be successful this time! And, the next roundabout is only 1 km away. The next decision looms……..
Autostradas (freeways) are “fun” too. At least the Italians understand, unlike many Americans, that the left lane is for passing only. Here is the added excitement of the intermingling of tiny underpowered trucks doing maybe 51 mph in the right lane and the drivers in the left lane doing 100 mph. Yes, they do go that fast. So, years ago, before moving left to pass, I learned to carefully look at the left lane in the mirror. If the approaching car has a Mercedes emblem, do not go into their lane. They will be flying past you very shortly.
But, once you get into the rhythm of it, it is really fun. They are very predictable drivers. They always seem to do what you expect of them. And, you get a lot more aggressive than you would ever be in the US. It’s survival mode.
Looking back at Modica on the way to Ragusa.
Countryside of SE Sicily.
Driving down the freeway, smoking volcano in the foreground. Not your typical driving experience!
Mt Etna in an active phase again. This 10,000′ peak looms over Catania. I think it would be like putting Mt Rainer in Kent, and adding smoke. It is that close to a large city. Sort of scary for the inhabitants I would think to see this going on all day and night.